Musings about early retirement with no fixed address

Moab Rocks!

With the car fixed and back on the road, our cross-country camping adventure was finally back on track. Until this point it hardly felt like a camping adventure at all, as we had stayed only two nights in a tent compared to six in a motel. And due to the popularity of Zion, the two nights camping were closer to sleeping in a crowded parking lot than a campground. While we were making the best of it, we were ready for more nature. We decided to head east towards Moab for use as a jumping off point for Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Both of the parks, and Moab in general, turned out to be absolutely spectacular.

Going into this trip, despite there being five National Parks in Southern Utah, I was only aware of Zion, Bryce Canyon, and Arches. While I was disappointed to miss Bryce Canyon, it seemed like there just weren’t many places for us to camp and we were getting sick of staying in motels. My research found that there are a bunch of spots for camping in and around Moab, so that made the decision for us. We rolled in at about 11am on a Thursday and despite the promise of plenty of sites, we found one full campground after another. Luckily, we ended up getting the second to last spot in just about the final campground along the Colorado River. Whew!

Our modest accommodations for the night
No trees, no problem
When the views from the campground are this good, it makes it hard to leave

We stayed three nights at the Lower Onion Creek Campground, which is about 20 miles outside of town. The weather cooperated with highs in the low to mid 70s and no rain, so the fact that there wasn’t a single tree for shade didn’t matter too much. The campground itself is nestled into a valley surrounded by giant cliffs and great views. In fact, it seemed like everywhere we looked was a spectacular vista. The whole Moab area is packed full of red rocks, plateaus, mesas, canyons, snow-covered mountains, and expansive views in just about every direction. Even the drive from the campground into town along the Colorado River is awesome with its sheer cliff walls.

A great view in every direction
No photographers were harmed in the making of this picture

It’s kind of hard to convey how incredible it was, and I don’t feel like most of the pictures do it justice. But let’s just say that we planned to stay for three nights and ended up staying seven instead. There’s that retirement flexibility rearing its head again and allowing us to maximize our time in the places we liked the best. And Moab was definitely our top spot so far.

Buttes and mesas and colored rocks everywhere
My eyes fail waaay before the views end

At one point, we made a favorable comparison to Rome. In Rome, you can walk down a random street and stumble upon a glorious ancient building that isn’t listed in any tourist guide book. In any other city it would be a top attraction, but in Rome it doesn’t even make the list due to the sheer number of even more amazing sites. Moab has a similar kind of feel. Everywhere we looked was something spectacular, even if it wasn’t on the list of popular attractions. We did a couple of hikes that were fantastic but weren’t close to being in a National Park, let alone on a list of best hikes. It seemed like everywhere we turned we were finding a new fun thing to do or stunning view to absorb.

The green and red desert color combo was irresistible
Oh, and huge snowy mountains too!

It happened this way from day one as we were about to run into town after setting up camp, but chose to check out the trailhead across the road from our campground. We initially wanted to just read about the trail, but seeing the views and that it was a relatively short hike, we decided to call an audible and tackle the trail right then. It turns out that this was a slightly famous area called the Fisher Towers. According to the sign at the trailhead, it had been used for filming 1950s and 1960s Western movies called Wagon Master, The Comancheros, and Geronimo. They even had signs up that they were going to film something there (a commercial, I think) a few days later. And I’m so glad that we decided to hike it, as it’s completely unique and really stunning.

The Fisher Towers
A sense of scale
My kind of rock climbing

The next day our trip to Arches National Park coincided with the only cloudy day the whole week we stayed. As such, it was still really cool but pictures from that day don’t do it justice due to the lack of sun. Given how much we enjoyed this park in the less than ideal weather, it was a no brainer for us to head back again later in the week when the sun was out.

Unique rock formations everywhere
Broken Arch (apparently named for the crack at the apex)
Yeah! Sun!
Turret Arch
Striking landscapes in all directions

I had never heard of Canyonlands National Park until we arrived in Southern Utah, but it was a very pleasant surprise. There are two main areas. The easiest to access and closest to Moab is the Island in the Sky section. This section of the park is on top of a large plateau which provides distant views in every direction on clear days. There are also really cool rock formations and due to it being Spring, we saw a ton of wildflowers. It was simply gorgeous.

Deep canyons everywhere
Canyonlands has arches too. This is the Mesa Arch.
So much better in person
Indian Paintbrush flowers showing off

The second section of the same park, The Needles, is about 100 miles away. Here we did our longest and best hike of the trip. It involved a great variety of desert landscapes and a lot of climbing on the rocks in between canyons. It was a ton of fun. Where there is no trail because a lot of it is just walking on solid rock, the park sets up cairns (little piles of rocks) to serve as a guide for which direction to travel. At points it felt like playing the part of an old time explorer blazing a new path.

Rock world!
So much fun hiking here
I’m not sure there’s a bad view in Moab
A cairn with a flower friend

After staying 3 nights at the Lower Onion Creek Campground, we decided to get a motel for night 4 in order to shower and catch the Cubs game on Sunday Night Baseball. We got up on day 5, this time a Monday morning, and snagged a much closer spot at the Grandstaff Campground.  So not only was our trip into town cut by 75%, we also gained a couple of trees for shade, which came in extremely handy since temperatures were scheduled to get up into the 90s. Don’t worry Mom, we were diligent in carrying water and applying the sunscreen.

Camping along the shores and sheer walls of the Colorado River
Oh, and we even got a (nearly) full moon

I think we could’ve easily stayed multiple weeks and still have been totally enthralled. But despite the temporary extension to our Moab stay, we still have commitments that we’ve made to our families to be in certain places at certain times. As such we had to end our stay after a week and head towards the upper Midwest.

Wildflowers and old twisted trees are a beautiful sight
Best cactus bloom ever!
I can definitely see us returning to Moab in the future

I’m not sure why, but I had barely heard about Utah and its amazing scenery before visiting. I knew there was some good mountain biking, and of course rock formations, but there was so much more. As it turns out, we love Utah! And Moab is the best of the best. There are gorgeous views in every direction and the landscape is simply incredible. So spread the word, and get yourself and your sunscreen to Utah.

10 Comments

  1. A Purple Life

    This looks absolutely gorgeous and SO FUN!! Thank you so much for keeping us updated. I’m looking into how I can do a National Park tour ASAP now…

    • Eric

      It really was great. Our National Parks are such a treasure. If you’re planning on stopping at 3 or more, make sure to get the annual pass as you’ll save some cash.

  2. Mom

    I see Utah as a place you possibly will “ land” someday after being so pleasant surprised at all its beauty. We’d definitely visit you two there!

    • Eric

      It’s possible, although I don’t know if I could handle the desert as a full time home.

  3. Janie Peugeot

    We spent 3 weeks in Utah a few years ago& were absolutely amazed by the beauty! We wish we could’ve stayed longer. Have you checked out the BLM land? Camp for free! We love the Natl Parks & their campgrounds if you can get in w/o a reservation!!Check our Corp of engineering’s camping too. Usually great facilities & nominal cost . Also state & national forest campground s. hope to see you when your in the area. Have fun!! Really enjoying the blog.

    • Eric

      Camping for free sounds nice, but I think I’d rather pay to have access to a toilet. 🙂

  4. Glenda Lehman

    Thanks for sharing your experiences and enjoyment of your travels. I have never traveled the parks so this gives me a view thru your eyes. Looks AWESOME!!

    • Eric

      We had a great time for sure.

  5. David @iretiredyoung

    Wow, that looks awesome. Good to see that you’re enjoying some of the benefits of your new life, and the flexibility that it gives you.

  6. Kristin

    I had never been to Utah until March and I think Arches National Park is the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen. I’m counting the days until I go back in March 2022.

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